Spring Break: Beach, Backwaters, and Beautiful Indian Scenery

Ty and I just returned from an amazing trip in Kerala for our Spring Break.  We're now officially 2 days into our last term in B-school...which is insane to both of us!  It's a bittersweet time though, as we're loving our experience in India but realizing that we won't be seeing our Duke friends again during the MBA experience (soon after though, we hope!)

On our 10-day trip through southern India, we visited Cochin, Allepey, Varkala, and Munnar - all amazing Indian locations with different environments, scenery, and vibes.  See some of the pics below, and PLEASE let us know if you're traveling in the area, as we'd love to offer suggestions. We traveled by planes, trains, government and private busses, houseboat, taxis, and auto-rickshaws, tried new Indian cuisines (and found some traveler-friendly spots with real coffee and Western food as well!), and took in the wildly diverse sights, sounds, and, yes...even smells, of this part of India.  The travel bug is alive and well in both of us!

Starting a Business...To Be Posted Soon...

Many apologies to the Dukies organizing the blog project, but my "Starting a Business" post is postponed due to our Spring Break and the fact that my ISB colleague and teammate who is starting her own business is currently in Seattle, presenting her business plan to the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation (she's obviously a rock-star!)  Radhika has agreed to talk to me more in detail about her business venture, and I'll post after her return to India. 

Stay tuned!

Communication Tidbit: "The Bobble"

So for all of you Indian readers, you'll have to weigh in on my observations of what the exchange and international students at ISB have taken to calling "the bobble."  Never before did I think to write about this confusing gesture/communication technique, but then - twice in one day - I used the bobble!

The term "bobble" likely originated from the scary baseball park souvenirs/dashboard toys in the U.S. - the bobble-head dolls.  However, in India, the communication technique is much older than the weird American toys (as nearly every Indian I've met here seems to use it rather frequently.) The motion is something between a "yes" nod and a "no" shake, but it also has this added bounce and all-over-the-place wild motion of the head.  As the recipient of the bobble, it's hard to know whether the bobble-er is agreeing, disagreeing, listening without judgement, or perhaps making fun of you.

Just as the attentive Fuqua students nod in class as a sign of intent listening and information digestion (even when spacing out completely), the ISB students bobble!  It's completely amusing and can push me to the brink of hysterics when I'm especially bored.  However, when giving a presentation to the director of marketing at a local company this week, I realized how unnerving it can be to have no idea what your audience is thinking!  What is this bobble?...and how has it invaded my communication too?! :)

Alright...feedback please, Indian friends! 

The Consumer Experience

The topic of the third Duke-initiated entry is "The Consumer Experience," and luckily, I've been able to see a number of shopping options in and around Hyderabad in the last few weeks.  Here are some observations and images of the shopping options in India, from the most simple carts and kiosks to the upscale, A/C'd, multi-storied shopping centers.

Fruits and veggies via roadside cart

The fruits here are both tropical and abundant - very tempting but potentially dangerous if not of the self-peel variety.  Each day along the streets, you can find grapes, papaya, guava, pineapple, pomegranate, bananas, etc.  The veggies are amazing too. Huge, brightly colored eggplant, cauliflower ("gobi"), beans, cucumbers, and tomatoes adorn the carts.  The only barrier to me becoming a completely loyal customer of this type of enterprise is that the goods lose the "freshness appeal" when you see the incredible amount of dust, exhaust, and dirt surrounding the carts.  Although I'm sure the food is healthy and safe (or I'm hoping, if not totally sure), I can't quite bring myself to venture into roadside fruit territory beyond the banana.  Perhaps by the end of the trip...?

Chat ("ch-aught") stands

Calling these contraptions anything other than "fried junk food carts" would be inaccurate.  All sorts of veggies and carbs are deep fried (my guess is at least five times each) then tossed into the cart and sold to the hungry passerby. Though I've frequented 

these vendors in a number of in African countries, I've yet to tackle street food in India, as the "Delhi Belly" stories have been a little too intense.  The calorie count can't be pretty either, as evidenced by any picture of me post-Africa trips!

Small, independent "everything you need (or don't) shops"

If you're in need of small packets of shampoo, magazines or newspapers, sweet treats, or phone cards, you're bound to find them (and many more random things) in these roadside bodega-like shops.  The villages seem to have more of these mom-and-pops, but they are present throughout Hyderabad (a significant metropolis on the sub-continent) as well.  These establishments might have items similar to your well-stocked gas station in the states, but most of the goods are behind a counter, crowded together (not much placement strategy here), and sold for prices that are, for the most part, negotiable.  I'd recommend looking closely at the expiration date on anything perishable and dusting off the items before use/consumption!  These shops tend to be one rung up the shop development ladder from the carts in that they are immobile (usually at least a few walls are involved).

Free standing stores (as in, located in buildings with doors!)

There sheer number of stores here is shocking to me.  There are alleyways of stores in the centuries-old "Charminar" where entire streets are filled with identical (to the uninformed shopper, anyway) stores and product offerings.  I was recently told that the streets of Charminar are "an example of pure competition."  However, beyond this small area of the city, there are stores that seem to duplicate one another everywhere!  I've not been able to figure out how one store differentiates itself from the other, but maybe when you're part of an economy with 1.2 billion people, you don't have to worry about excess capacity or coming up with a unique value proposition...

A lot of the free-standing stores seem to be chains (predominantly local or regional though).  For instance, the J.R. Bakery was our "go to" location for bottled water and 

train-trip food in Kerala, and the chain's definitely perfected the art of creating a consistent customer experience in all of its cafes.  

Today, I shopped with some of the other exchange women and experienced unreal customer service at an Indian clothing store.  The manager was wanting to chat once he realized I am studying 

at ISB and from the U.S. The stores, also part of a chain, recruit 

unskilled men and women from villages around Hyderabad, employ them in the city at one of the multiple stores, provide uniforms, health insurance (an unusual perk here), and extensive training in customer service to these young villagers.  They were picking out dozens of shirts, dresses, and wraps for each of us (to match our sizes, skin, eyes, etc.) and tailoring on the spot. It was seriously impressive, though a bit overwhelming at times.  

The mall (ugh!)

So, to expose my biases from the start, I hate mall-shopping anywhere...so my negative impressions of the City Center in Hyderabad have nothing to do with the stores, atmosphere, or people here.  I was surprised to see a McDonalds, a Kentucky Fried Chicken, a Levi's, and a Pepe Jeans in Hyderabad at this five-story mall in the upscale Banjara Hills neighborhood (and I have to admit, I couldn't resist a Diet Coke from McDonalds!)  The mall's one redeeming quality it's A/C on this 95 degree day (A/C's a rarity here), but the loud music, the food-court atmosphere, the marked prices (bargaining becomes a bit of a hobby here), and the overabundance of ex-pats made my first trip to City Center my last!

ISB ranked 15th in the world! (Thanks, Financial Times)

Yesterday was a huge day at ISB.  The Financial Times rankings of global MBA programs were released, and ISB jumped five spots from last year to #15.  As the only ranked B-school in India and a relatively new player on the global stage (only 8 years old), the sense of pride and excitement was very palpable. 

Everyone at the school was ecstatic, and a massive lunch celebration ensued, followed by a late-night party that lasted well into the morning.  Think Fuqua Friday on steroids!  Lunch included ice sculptures, thousands of floating flowers, an incredible assortment of food, and a delay of all classes so that the entire ISB community could enjoy the fun.  

The evening party was also seriously impressive - the bar, food vendors, DJ, and late-night dancing were topped off by a fireworks display (above).  Enjoy the views...

Photos, Tidbits, Etc.

I've had a few requests for pictures on the blog.  So...here are some bits and pieces of random information and their accompanying pics, in case you want to have more of a glimpse into our ISB existence!

Outside our dorm at ISB

Life at ISB:  This week has been a fairly "normal" one in terms of going to B-school in India.  

Classes, homework, group case analyses, and the like.  It feels good to get into the swing of things, to learn the ways of working together in an Indian context, and to get caught up on assignments and the ever-expanding list of things to do (though I can't complain too much, as one of the tasks on my list was, "lay by the pool!") 

The weather in India is gradually starting to warm, as people warned us it would, but the campus is still vibrant with color from the flowering bushes and trees - a welcome sight it January for a girl from the midwest!

Interestingly, after swimming laps for the past 2 weeks at the aforementioned pool, I was kindly informed that it was the sight of a recent cobra spotting... To be continued when/if I can verify the source of the info. (Perhaps I'm just the gullible exchange student? I hope!)

Sight of rumored cobra spotting...hmm...

Exploring Hyderabad:  We made a few trips to local establishments this week for a "taste 

of Hyderabad."  Ty and I went with our new Israeli friends to a western restaurant in the high-end Banjara Hills neighborhood one evening and then went to a local hole-in-the-wall the following night.  Night #1 involved salads, cheese plates, and beverages that we haven't enjoyed in several weeks, but it ended in an auto ride that was enough to make us teeter between laughter and tears!  We were glad to know, after our driver tested his brakes against an oncoming cement truck, that the vehicle could, in fact, stop rather quickly! Night #2 involved being waited on by a 16-year old named "Nani" who was visibly shaken at the beginning of the meal, stating in a trembling voice, "It is my first time serving foreigners."  By the end of the meal though, he'd told us his life story (complete with introductions to his father and grandmother) and was prancing out after us yelling, "Get good grades and come back again!" 

Hospital and clinic visits:  This week involved two day-long trips to meet with folks in the healthcare space, which made the week all the more exciting for me.

First, I was able to visit my Indian colleagues on a Duke Global Health Institute study through the CARE Foundation.  Kevin Schulman, Will Mitchell, and Krishna Udayankumar (all HSM faculty or lecturers at Duke) wrote a great Journal of Health Affairs article on the CARE Hospitals late last year - all of you HSMers should get your hands on it.  I'm now involved with the Foundation's rural health assessment of five villages in a region 12 hrs (by car) north of Hyderabad.  Although I've met with the India-based team via conference call, it was great to meet face-to-face and start planning the next phase of the project together.  By the end of the study, 5000 villagers will have been surveyed to determine their health needs, and the CARE Foundation will plan future outreach programs to serve the communities most effectively. Pretty amazing work, I think!

A note to all coffee-lovers and B-school students thinking about working abroad:  Our meeting, like all business meetings I've attended so far in India, was interrupted twice by a woman carrying a tray of lovely coffees & teas - a tradition that I appreciate so very much! The coffee cups in this country are seriously small (read: Dixie cup vs. Starbucks venti), so I take every opportunity I can get to "re-up" on the caffeine here.  Although I'd die for a Fox Center refillable mug of organic blend right now, I am deeply grateful to the coffee/tea woman for her frequent visits!

The second healthcare-oriented meeting involved visiting a start-up medical diagnostics company in Hyderabad for a class project.  The company is currently receiving funding through a local VC firm, and its mission is impressive: provide high quality laboratory and radiology services to patients at an affordable price.  They're hoping to expand throughout southern India and ultimately provide diagnostic capabilities throughout regions that currently have no access or only limited access (potentially unsafe, unreliable, and unregulated).  

Interesting cultural conversations:  I saw this sign in two clinics where ultrasounds are 

regularly performed.  Posting of the sign in medical diagnostics centers is mandatory, and it states: "Determining the Sex of the foetus by Pre-Natal Diagnostic test is a punishable Crime for those who do it and for those who get it done & those who encourage it."  

Of course, it took me about two seconds to pry into my team member, an OB-GYN who's practiced in India for her entire career.  She told me that because male children have traditionally been (and still are, in many areas) favored over female children, the country has historically suffered high rates of "fetucide" (or selective abortion if the fetus is female).  Google produced hundreds of political, religious, and other non-objective postings on the practice, but the honesty and frankness with which my teammates talked about the practice was surprising (and refreshing too, signaling increased awareness and intolerance).  I've always associated China with infanticide post-birth, and I had no idea that it has been (and is) still a problem in India.  

The conversation also led to really interesting discussions with my team members (male & female, Indian, American, & Thai, 20-somethings & 50-somethings, Buddhist & Hindu) about the changing views of Indians in my generation, the amazing diversity of political and religious beliefs in the country, and a number of other fascinating issues. We debated arranged vs. love marriages, gender equality, astrological powers, women's rights (including abortion, contraception, maternal mortality, etc.), the impact of media and technology on India, and the gross disparities in wealth among the country's population.  It was so interesting to sense the cultural tide changing as I sat sandwiched between young and old (literally and figuratively) in the back seat of a taxi, waiting for the stopped traffic to inch its way through the Old City.

Other updates:  Although we stayed in Hyderabad this weekend (not the norm for the 

exchange student crowd - most of whom are off exploring the country), we did start planning the travel schedule post-ISB.  We'll have 2 1/2 months to travel through India, and paging through "Lonely Planet India" makes me extremely excited for the adventure.  We've loved our time in the villages to date, and we'll likely try to see some remote areas along the way, in addition to the "must-sees."  So far, we've got Agra, Delhi, Rajasthan, Calcutta, Varanasi, Shimla, Darjeeling, Goa, and Kerala on the map (with a probable jaunt into Nepal).  We know that many of you know great places to though, and we're more than willing to take recommendations!

Business, Culture, and Customs

Duke's "guiding questions" for this post include issues on cultural norms/customs and business practices.  Acknowledging from the start that I've only been in the country for two weeks and that customs within the b-school campus differ from those outside its gates, my thoughts on the issues are as follows...

Cultural norms

My initial impression is that the Indian culture is much more formal than the American culture.  Although certain areas of Hyderabad are more westernized (e.g., the new airport, Cyderabad, etc.), the city is dominated by a more conservative culture.  The predominant religions are Hinduism and Islam, and as such, many of the women dress in full saris or burkhas.  As a woman, I think much more about my dress, my speech, and my mannerisms here than I ever do at home.  When I leave campus, I wear either pants or long skirts and cover my shoulders – and this would simply not happen in 80 degree, sunny weather in the States!  Also, vendors and drivers normally speak to Ty rather than me (despite the fact that I’m way more verbose!), I only occasionally receive a handshake when off campus (whereas men frequently shake hands), and Ty and I are usually one of the few couples walking together through town.  Normally, groups of men stay together, even holding hands as they walk, as do the women.

The Indians with whom we have spent time often take tea or coffee with friends in the afternoons and evenings, relaxing in one another’s apartments or homes. Also, “evening” is not the same meaning here as it might be in most U.S. settings.  Whereas I am accustomed to having evening meals at 7:00-ish, dinner here is not available until 7:30pm (until 10:00pm).  Ty and I are often the first of the ISB students and staff to walk through the café doors at night, stomachs growling as we enter.  Also, concerning eating, many of our colleagues at ISB have private cooks and/or maids, and meals, snacks, and tea are often prepared for the students.  This is one stark difference from the lives of Fuqua students at Pinnacle Ridge, Alexan Place, Station 9, or The Lofts!

Dinner isn’t the only thing to start late in India!  “India time” is a frequent phrase used to dismiss the frequent 15-minute tardiness for meetings, classes, etc.  When invited to a 10:00pm school-sponsored party for the new exchange students, I thought that arriving 30 minutes late (“fashionably” – right?!) was appropriate.  However, not a single person was at the location (including the organizer), and the party did not really begin until around 1:00!  The Midwestern “Early to bed, early to rise” value is not a part of the ISB culture.  However, our Muslim friends wake at 5:00 each day for morning prayers – another example of the diversity of people, practices, and norms in this country.

Today, my Managing Complexity course addressed the issues of Indian and American cultural differences in business.  (Specifically, we discussed the challenges of implementing a Google-like culture in an Indian business setting.)  The comments from my Indian colleagues support the judgment that the culture here is much more formal than that in the U.S.  Students mentioned the presence of hierarchical structures between management and lower-level employees (a “sir” culture), a lack of willingness or comfort engaging in honest feedback, and a high level of competition (versus collaboration) among colleagues.

Business Environment

Since arriving in Hyderabad, we’ve witnessed an interesting (and saddening) chain of events unfold in our new city.  Satyam, a prominent Indian IT company based in Hyderabad, was accused of fraudulent activity – essentially padding their books with nonexistent funds, claiming to have roughly $1 billion USD when, in reality, they’re accused of not having enough cash to cover their employees’ pay for the previous month.  The business world here has been shaken at a national, local, and academic level with the unraveling of this story. 

For several days, newspaper headlines, CNBC India, and all of the national news channels and websites addressed the fraud continuously.  The CEO resigned almost immediately, but at ISB, our Dean also resigned from his leadership position at our school, as he was a Board member of Satyam.  The school was shocked and discussions ensued about how the Indian economy would rebound from the embarrassing international drama, and the similarity of this situation to the Enron scandal in the U.S. has been discussed at length.  Even as I write this entry, CNBC is running news about Satyam, two weeks after the initial blow was announced.  India is now grappling with how to improve its regulatory frameworks, revisit corporate legislation, and repair its international reputation as a booming, trustworthy player in the global business world.

Another interesting note is that, while attending a panel discussion on technology and strategy by leaders from McKinsey, Deloitte, Accenture, CapGemini, and IBM Consulting, one partner discussed India’s changing competitive position.  Whereas I am accustomed to hearing Americans speak about the threat of Indian and Chinese competition, I was not expecting to hear the same sentiments expressed by Indian professionals about emerging Asian economies (e.g., Vietnam).  The professionals discussed the inability of the country to continue competing solely as a cost-leader and warned of complacency in the midst of an ever-increasing global competition.  It will be really interesting to see how the country defines itself as a unique player in the world market.